04/18/2026
When I first started working with natural dyes I felt like making dye swatches was a waste of fabric. But as I started working with silk I needed to keep better track of the colors I created, and a new obsession emerged.
In my ecoprinting practice I like to use layers of color, and I started creating swatches of the dyes and their respective concentrations so I could better replicate colors in the future.
Far from a waste of fabric, I began to document a library of possibility, initially starting with the familiar plant dyes I’d been growing for years, and began testing out wild plants for their dye potential and was amazed at the wealth of color in the world around me.
These slides represent a small fraction of my dye swatch library- just a handful of my favorites I made last summer. I’ve got a list of plants I can’t wait to try this year!
For those of you not versed in natural dyeing, WOF stands for weight of fiber, and the percentage is given in relation to the weight of the fiber being dyed.
Many traditional natural dye plants only require a small amount of plant material due to their high pigment concentration, however when testing out wild plants, I typically start at 100-200% WOF to ensure a rich color.
Since these are protein fibers, all are mordanted with Potassium Aluminum Sulfate @ 15% with the exception of the Silk Velvet which is mordanted with 5% Aluminum Triformate.
Additionally, Iron is used to modify colors and creates darker tones. I’ve included some of the iron modified samples while others only have the PAS and ATF mordant derived colors shown.