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10/11/2025

Glazing on the Wheel — The Easy Way
(Save this for your next session)

1. Setup
Getting the setup right makes the whole process smoother, so take a moment to prepare properly. You’ll need a stable way to prop your piece above a bowl on the wheel — in this reel, I’ve used wooden sticks, but anything sturdy works (a round BBQ tray, for example). It’s helpful to use something that allows the glaze to drip into the bowl rather than pool at the base of your piece. Stability is crucial; the last thing you want is for the piece to tip as you glaze. I space my supports slightly wider so the base has a firm, balanced surface to rest on.

2. Centering
Proper centering is essential for an even glaze, If your piece isn't centered the glaze will be applied more on one side of the piece than the other and touching that up can be problematic. It's worth taking your time at this step.

3. Pour Consistently
For a clean, even layer, start your pour at the top and move gradually downward in one continuous motion. In the reel, I paused to change camera angles, which caused slight runs — this shouldn’t happen as much if you pour in one smooth pass. Make sure your jug holds enough glaze to cover the entire piece. Adjust thickness by varying how long you pour in one area before moving down. Keep an eye on the base — if bare patches appear, focus another pour in that section, but watch your glaze thickness as you go.

Bonus Tip
If you’re getting too many drips, increase the flow of glaze so it coats smoothly instead of running in streaks. The key is balance: enough glaze for full coverage, but not so much that it cracks or peels as it dries. It takes a bit of practice to find that sweet spot.

Got questions? DM me or comment below.
Struggling with something? Let me know so I can make a reel about it.

04/11/2025

A larger sculpture emerging - one layer at a time.

You can see more pieces like this at: www.tomdarbydesign.com

03/11/2025

How to get fast and clean glaze lines.

1) Scrape a crisp line
Center the piece upside down on the wheel - true centering matters or the line will wobble. Brace your hands together. Hold a rib or small knife perfectly still and let the wheel do the work. Establish a clean stop line where you want clay to show. Then use a damp sponge or brush to lift the remaining glaze up to that line. Finish cleaning the foot with your preferred tool (sponge, rib, or knife).

2) Work cleanly
Watch for water drips and sharp tool edges that can mark the glaze surface. I grip a small sponge and use one corner only - the rest stays in my hand so nothing drips or leaves marks. A sharp rib or knife keeps movements precise and reduces accidents.

Safety
Ventilate the studio and wear appropriate breathing protection when scraping. I lightly dampen the area I want to remove before I start to keep dust down. Be sure to wipe away any slurry before it dries to help with this.

Got questions? DM me or comment below.
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31/10/2025

First layer laid.
A new sculpture takes root - built on past work, reaching into new ground.

29/10/2025

1. No more clay lumps
Spending time centering a piece only to stick it down with clay lumps can be risky when done incorrectly: if it’s too soft, the rim deforms; if it’s too dry, it can crack. A chuck solves this. The clay forms to your piece without damage, and because it’s slightly wet, it grips and locks the pot in place with almost no effort—faster and easier than the lump method.

2. Versatility
Perfect for trimming a mix of forms. You can change the chuck’s width or rim angle in seconds to fit each shape. Once it’s adjusted, quickly center the piece (see my previous reel on centering greenware) and you’re ready to trim. Chucks can be used in two ways: to support a pot from the inside (for bowls, plates etc.) or from the outside (for vases, bottles etc.).

3. Necks & rims
This technique shines with delicate necks or rims. Shape the chuck tall and narrow to support long necks, or use it to raise the pot off the wheelhead to protect delicate rims while you trim. For slender forms, support the base lightly with your other hand to prevent tipping and add security.

Bonus tip
If you’ve used a lot of water while throwing or adjusting the chuck, firm it up with a brief pass of a heat gun or by scraping off excess slip with a rib. You don’t want the chuck too wet—it weakens the support and adds unnecessary moisture to your greenware.

Got questions? Dm me or comment below.
Struggling with something specific? Let me know so I can make a reel about it.

27/10/2025

My Webshop is now live, I've been working hard to create a beautiful shop full of my pieces and I'm really excited to share it with you. Sign up to my newsletter and receive 10 percent off of your first purchase.

24/10/2025

Centering Greenware the Fast and Easy Way

1. Pressure
Start with the wheel at medium speed. When centering this way, it’s important that both hands work together in one coordinated movement. The right hand’s role is to gently nudge the piece toward the center of the wheel - your thumb provides most of the pressure, while the other fingers offer support as the greenware turns. The left hand complements this by applying gentle pressure toward the middle of the wheel, catching the pot if it jumps off-center and guiding it smoothly back into place. The pot should turn freely as it contacts your hands; for this to happen, they must be dry and apply the right amount of pressure. If the pot jumps around or doesn’t slide smoothly through your fingers, play with different pressure and make sure that your hands are completely dry.

2. Hand Position
Your right hand should form a V-shape, positioned at 6 o’clock, with the greenware sitting snugly within that V. Your left hand works at 11 o’clock, using the full open hand to gently guide the pot toward the center of the wheel and catch the piece if it jumps. Watch how my hands move in the video for a clear visual reference.

3. Practice
It’s easiest to learn this technique using a round form rather than a bumpy or elliptical one. Start with something that has a little weight, as this helps it stay stable and turn smoothly - a bowl is ideal. Avoid tall forms like vases early on, you can move on to those once the technique feels natural. Begin with gentle pressure and gradually increase it - this helps you understand how much force is needed to bring the piece into the center of the wheel.

Problem Solving
If the pot is jumping, try applying a little more pressure with your left hand to stabilize it. Make sure your right thumb is angled so the pot can slide smoothly against it, rather than catching. Also check that your hands are completely dry—any moisture will cause the pot to stick and jump.

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24/10/2025

Centering Greenware the fast and easy way

1. Pressure
Start with the wheel at medium speed. When centering this way, it’s important that both hands work together in one coordinated movement. The right hand’s role is to gently nudge the piece toward the center of the wheel - your thumb provides most of the pressure, while the other fingers offer support as the greenware turns. The left hand complements this by applying gentle pressure toward the middle of the wheel, catching the pot if it jumps off-center and guiding it smoothly back into place. The pot should turn freely as it contacts your hands; for this to happen, they must be dry and apply the right amount of pressure. If the pot jumps around or doesn’t slide smoothly through your fingers, play with different pressure and make sure that your hands are completely dry.

2. Hand Position
Your right hand should form a V-shape, positioned at 6 o’clock, with the greenware sitting snugly within that V. Your left hand works at 11 o’clock, using the full open hand to gently guide the pot toward the center of the wheel and catch the piece if it jumps. Watch how my hands move in the video for a clear visual reference.

3. Practice
It’s easiest to learn this technique using a round form rather than a bumpy or elliptical one. Start with something that has a little weight, as this helps it stay stable and turn smoothly - a bowl is ideal. Avoid tall forms like vases early on, you can move on to those once the technique feels natural. Begin with gentle pressure and gradually increase it - this helps you understand how much force is needed to bring the piece into the center of the wheel.

Problem Solving
If the pot is jumping, try applying a little more pressure with your left hand to stabilize it. Make sure your right thumb is angled so the pot can slide smoothly against it, rather than catching. Also check that your hands are completely dry—any moisture will cause the pot to stick and jump.

FOLLOW FOR REGULAR TUTORIALS
GOT QUESTIONS? COMMENT OR DM ME.

22/10/2025

I've been looking at new shapes for my leaf rimmed bowls, this is the next step.

18/10/2025

This time of year is always laced with mixed feelings, sadness that the summer is gone but excitement for more focussed studio time. This is a snapshot into my creative process.

14/10/2025

Collaring in - step by step

1) Compress the rim
For clean, even collaring, the rim must be well compressed and level. If it isn’t, compression will happen unevenly, leading to wobbly, off-centre rims and - if it’s bad enough - buckling that resembles a flower. To prevent this, stretch the rim out and back in a few times first. This evens the rim, homogenises the clay, and sets you up for the next step. ( you can see me doing this at the start of the video)

2) Hand position (overview)
Many people make a circle with their fingers and close it to collar in. The problem: the rim is unsupported and can wobble or deform. Use the hand position shown in the video instead - it applies even pressure while keeping the rim under control. It takes practice, but once it clicks you’ll collar in cleanly every time.

3) Hand position (details)
Use your first two fingers to gently squeeze the rim from the sides while staying in light contact with the top - this keeps everything controlled while also thinning out the rim. Your thumb stabilises the rim and adds gentle pressure at 6 o'clock. On the left hand, place the first finger and thumb at roughly 8 o’clock and 11 o’clock to add light, guiding pressure and maintain control as you compress.

IMPORTANT — Wrist placement
Keep your right wrist below the top of the cylinder, this guides the clay in and up. If your wrist is above the rim, it’s hard to place your fingers correctly and you lose control.

BONUS TIP
If you find using only two fingers tricky, try using the gap between your middle and ring finger instead and follow the same steps, this can add stability and power.

Got questions? comment or DM me.
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